Rotari Cuvée 28 TrentoDOC, Italy

100% Chardonnay from Rotari, the Trentino arm of the Mezzacorona giant. This is being pushed in the UK at around £15 a bottle, which makes it amongst the cheapest Traditional Method wines available. It’s better than almost everything at that price (and better than a fair bit priced higher, too). Very bright with sunny yellow grapefruit and almond paste, clean and balanced with 36 months of ageing. The only real signature of a very affordable sparkling wine comes on the finish, which holds quite a build-up of grippy, slightly bitter citrus oil. But in its sunny yellow-grapefruit way, it is quite attractive. More fun than much ‘special offer’ own-brand champagne seen at this time of year, for sure. 16

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/ Blanc de Blancs, Rotari, TrentoDOC

Rotari Flavio Riserva 2009

Trentodoc, Italy. Glad we had this last (purely by chance). 100% Chardonnay, 8 years on lees. It didn’t need any longer on lees, and it certainly made the most of its time – it’s flashy but it’s very good. Bought for a silly price in Italy (around EU25). You could cause some mischief by putting this in a lineup of expensive late-disgorged wines I think.

Bosh! Everyone’s eyebrows raised now. Buttermilk and creme fraiche, some smoky tones but also creamy peach, kiwi and masses of candied citrus. There is freshness on the palate though, which is welcome as the wine has taken on a decadent texture in bottle. It threatens blowsiness with some magnolia and blossomy notes but totally gets away with it. Perhaps a bit O.T.T. for some, but I love it. Length, complexity and a bit of swagger


Date Tasted : 02/06/2019

/ 2009, Blanc de Blancs, Rotari, TrentoDOC