La Closerie ‘Fac-Simile’, Champagne

Jeröme Prévost. Pinot Meunier from light sand/clay in Gueux. Barrel vinification, 2016 vintage.

This is a bit of a unicorn wine now. Very impressive too, and more elegant than I was expecting. Perhaps these couple of years post-disgorgement have settled it down a little? There’s a classic orangey tinge (both in flavour and colour) here to strawberry tart and gentle tobacco smoke, with lovely floaty florals and some spiced frangipane and nougat richness coming on. A singular wine, quite alluring and a bit of a shape-shifter in the glass. 17

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/ Champagne, La Closerie, Rosé

Berlucchi ’61 Rosé

60% PN, 40% CH, 2 years on lees. Sweet crabapple, fruit a little muted at first but opening up very slowly with some bitter herbs and grapefruit. The fruit sweetness – nectarine, raspberry – arrives after a while, tagged with a little autolytic and cut with fine phenolic details. Seems a touch charmless and anodyne compared to the others in this range at the moment. Difficult base vintage? 15.5

/ Berlucchi, Franciacorta, Rosé

Ferrari Perlé Rosé 2014

80% Pinot Nero, 20% Chardonnay. All stainless steel, 50 months on lees disgorged autumn 2019. A tricky vintage for most of Italy, Trentino included. Lots of rain and disease problems, especially for the red grapes. 

Nevertheless this wine hits all the right notes with lovely raspberries and peaches, dunked in lovely aromatics of smoky pepper, dried rose petals and orange. A little spicy tomato savour, with gentle sweet creaminess. Lovely clarity and reductive precision, as ever with Ferrari, although it is just a notch under some other Perlé releases. 17

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/ Ferrari, Rosé, TrentoDOC

Coolhurst Demi-Sec Rosé 2016

 

100% Pinot Noir from the 2016 vintage, with 32 g/l dosage.

As soon as Charlie from @coolhurstvineyards told me they were doing this wine I thought ‘yes’! Their dry wines have offered up such fresh, silky and refined expressions of English Pinot that all the extra dosage does is add a natural, balanced fruit sweetness.

Some classic fresh red fruits as you’d expect, but also ripe red apples, clementine and white peach, a twist of pepper and gingerbread, delicate white rose and meringue. There’s some crabapple jelly, but not a hint of anything wild or herbaceous. No rough edges, just pure delicacy from great fruit and sensitive winemaking ( Ulrich Hoffmann at @hoffmannandrathbone .)

An addictive little redcurrant pip twist pops up on the finish, joining the polished acidity in maintaining proper tension and length, too. This is the first Demi-Sec to properly grab me from the UK. Hats off! 17

Nyetimber 1086 Rosé 2010

75% Pinot Noir, 25% Chardonnay. Disgorged December 2018. 

The first vintage of the 1086 Rosé has subtly moved on since release, with deep cherry and red berry fruit mingling with darker flavours of cocoa, cinnamon and old-wood spice. There is a spot of grenadine grip playing on the palate, although it still feels bright and fresh. This is undoubtedly Nyetimber’s ultimate expression of Pinot Noir, gastronomic and expressive, although the blanc from 2010 is another notch up. A little less energy and vibrancy on this showing than when tasted in autumn 2019. Lovely, though, and ready to drink. 17.5

/ 2010, England, Nyetimber, Rosé

Nyetimber Classic Cuvée Rosé

2015 base. 62% Chardonnay, 38% Pinot Noir. 11% reserves from 2014, disgorged July 2019.

Red wine addition here is “in the teens”, percentage-wise, leading to quite a deeply-fruited style that represents a bit of a gear change from the calling-card style of pale, delicate Pinot Noir-led Rosés that have become England’s speciality. The high Chardonnay percentage is quite unusual in that context, although it is the Pinot fruit that hits you first with a good whack of poached strawberries and cherries. Behind it there’s sweet red apple and pear, framed by a gentle shortcake richness. With the slightly deeper style comes a touch of savour and spice, tomato and pepper, but the palate is clean and clear, drawn out very elegantly by Chardonnay line and perfectly-judged dosage. 16.5

/ 2010, England, Nyetimber, Rosé

Recaredo Intens Brut Nature Rosat 2014

Intens Rosat is, to be truthful, a bit bonkers. But I like it. 86% Monastrell and 14% Garnacha. Pure cherry juice over bitter herbs and lemon lead into boiled sweets and poached red fruits. It is almost slightly medicinal. Intense indeed and quite good fun. 15.5

/ 2014, Recaredo, Rosé, Spain

Raventós i Blanc De Nit Rosé 2017

De Nit is a rosé made by a small addition of red Monastrell. I love the succulence of the style – there is freshness and refinement to its peach, citrus and herb flavours, presented with lightness of touch and no trace of extraction or oxidation. An easy wine to enjoy, but not a facile one. 16.5

/ 2017, Raventós i Blanc, Rosé, Spain

Colet Vatua Rosé

The same as the Vatua but with a dosage of Garnacha from Priorat. This adds a sort of cherry bomb to the picture, with quite fun floral and herbal touches that go a little savoury alongside orange and strawberry fruit. A touch of cream on the finish. It works, but I prefer the straight Vatua. 15

/ Colet, Rosé, Spain

The Grange Pink 2015

The Pink 2015 has an extra layer of fragrance, though, with very attractive poached summer pudding fruit. I look forward to getting to know this producer better over the coming years and vintages.

16

Date Tasted : 07/02/2020

/ 2015, England, Rosé, The Grange