Leckford Estate Brut 2014, England

Waitrose’s Hampshire vineyard, made at Ridgeview. A couple of years in my cellar here. 55% Chardonnay, 25% Pinot Noir, 20% Pinot Meunier.

A nice dollop of apple sauce, slightly spicy, over a big whack of yellow grapefruit. This grapefruit shows up with a potent, building phenolic presence on the palate that is quite unsettling. The bitterness feels coarse, extracted somehow. These wines are up and down – the fruit is better and riper than the 2015 here, with no greenness, but the palate is a little unhinged. 15

Leckford Estate Brut 2015

 55% Chardonnay, 25% Pinot Noir and 20% Pinot Meunier. All steel, c.3 years on lees.

Made by Ridgeview for Waitrose from grapes grown at Waitrose’s own Leckford farm in Hampshire.
 
2015 really is a bit up and down in England – the fruit here is not perhaps quite up to previous releases, although it’s cleanly-made and acceptable value at the offer price of sub £20. Apple, meadow flowers and a touch of cowslip greenness, a bit lean in truth but there are some nice yellow stone fruit and pale pastry tones. 15