Ferrari Perlé Bianco 2009

100% Chardonnay from this slightly cooler TrentoDOC vintage. All stainless steel. Disgorgement mid 2018.

This lovely vintage is developing a more golden set of flavours now, with a strongly reductive personality that threatens vegetal notes but stays with jackfruit and pineapple, lime and lily, candied grapefruit and ginger. It retains the sinewy tension of roasted lemons on the palate, opening out now to a fine, relaxed place with gentle, unobtrusive bakery richness. An intriguing touch of something like paprika – smoky pepperiness – that I’ve started to associate with all these wines, too. Complex and rewarding, if not quite as harmonious as some other recent Perlés. 17

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/ Blanc de Blancs, Ferrari, TrentoDOC

Ferrari Perlé Nero 2010

100% Pinot Nero. 6 years on lees. 

This is brilliant. Beautifully fragrant, with super-ripe strawberry and golden stone fruits mixing with zesty candied grapefruit and papaya. It’s so clear and precise for a blanc de noirs, with no weightiness or toughness. Instead a spot of Pinot savour comes in the form of captivating, subtle complexities of smoky peppercorns, asian herbs and bitters. Lovely gentle autolytic richness. Very Ferrari – lots going on but nothing getting in the way of that beautiful fruit. 17.5

/ 2010, Blanc de Noirs, Ferrari, TrentoDOC

Ferrari Riserva Lunelli 2009

This is the outlier in Ferrari’s portfolio. 100% Chardonnay with full oak vinification. This bottle was disgorged in 2018. Intense, saturated style with lime marmalade and smoked meat at first, opening up with real complexity of pomelo, peach and candied citrus. Tarragon and sweet wood. A vein of yellow butter and spice runs through the palate. Oak is very, very prominent, yet not tough or dried-out. Time will help.

16.5

Date Tasted : 13/12/2019

/ 2009, Blanc de Blancs, Ferrari, TrentoDOC

Ferrari Perlé Bianco 2009

Pure candied lemon upon popping the cork. After a while a succession of shades of fruit step forward; some sweet orange flashes like passionfruit (yes…!) and tangerine, fragrant fresh apricot and (with air) apple turnover and quince. There is a ripe herbal quality of rosemary honey and anise/tarragon which casts a lovely light on the fruit too, but most interestingly there is this lurking savoury element which keeps popping up and confusing me. I wrote ‘smoked chilli’ which sounds a bit insane and gives the impression that this is a much odder wine than it is, but…let’s say cayenne pepper. I like it.

It seems quite loose on the palate at first, hung around this nice sappy sweet apricot and lemony line of fruit. After time some amaretti biscuit and quince richness pops up. It wears its lees ageing quite lightly with some elegant lemon curd creaminess, but I love the utterly transparent and perfectly-judged dosage (whatever it is….low! 4g/l ish?). A touch of hazelnut skin grip on the finish. I think it is lovely stuff – it misses some of the tension and backbone of truly great Blanc de Blancs for me (warm vintage perhaps?) but makes for delicious drinking

17

Date Tasted : 25/05/2019

/ 2009, Blanc de Blancs, Ferrari, TrentoDOC

Ferrari Perlé Rosé 2012

80% Pinot Noir, 20% Chardonnay. A very clean and fragrant style. What strikes me about this wine is just how well-balanced the spectrum of flavours in on the nose; it adds up to something really beautiful. There’s some ripeness with fresh raspberry and candied strawberry, a little sunny apricot and autumnal notes of red quince/crabapple jelly. Brightness comes from ripe citrus (pink grapefruit and clementine) and subtle complexity of basil and tea. This wine shows lovely integration of the lees-aged character with just a touch of creaminess and smoke, but it’s all very pristine and far from heavy. A little speculoos biscuit and floral honey hint at development – it was disgorged in August 2018.

The palate is fresh with fine fruit intensity. I think it needs a little more time for the dosage to settle, but the clarity and subtlety of the fruit shines through with ripe acidity carrying the crabapple and berry fruit some distance on the finish. Real delicacy to the mousse. Best till 2022

17

Date Tasted : 17/01/2019

/ 2012, Ferrari, Rosé, TrentoDOC