André Heucq ‘Histoires’ HI. VIII, Champagne

Heucq are based in Cuisles on the North bank of the Marne. 70% Pinot Meunier, 30% Pinot Noir from the pick of the parcels. 10 years on lees sous liège. Disgorged January 19, which presumably means this is the 2008 vintage.

This is a big character. Tasted blind with a group, it went down very well with its developed aromas – there’s a bed of calvados and sherry, spice and cola, some warm ground nut richness and a delicious grapefruit tang drawing out the finish. Blackcurrant leaf and herbs, too. The oxidative side here seems to gel better than you might expect, tempered by the succulence of all that lees ageing and the almost fudgy richness of the style. 16.5

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/ andre heucq, Blanc de Noirs, Champagne

André Heucq Héritage Blanc de Meunier, Champagne

100% Pinot Meunier from Cuisles on the Northern bank of the Marne. 3.5 years on lees.

This is textbook, friendly and affordable Meunier, not overcooked with oak or extraction but still full of fruit and freshness. There is a tiny vein of more oxidative openness on day 2, but it is full of sticky, tangy stewed apples and pears, autumn spices and a gentle maple/fudge generosity. A bit of wild blackberry, front-loaded in shape but with enough energy and line for some refreshment value. Good job. 15.5

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/ andre heucq, Blanc de Noirs, Champagne