Billecart-Salmon Cuvée Louis 2006

The Blanc De Blancs Cuvée Louis 2006 is also coming around a bend in the track. It’s a terrific wine this (and probably more so in a vintage drawn in finer ink than 2006). A lovely brush of sea air, bristling with some yellow grapefruit (charred at the edges) and apple sweetness. It’s not one of those straight-as-a-die, fine sandpaper Blanc De Blancs; it’s quite bold and forward, and possibly a bit of a teenager right now. Again I would wait a few years. It won’t outlive the N-F. B, and it doesn’t quite achieve the same level of refinement. It certainly has some interesting track ahead, though.

17.5

Date Tasted : 07/06/2019

Dom Perignon Rosé 2006

This is a fascinating wine, in no small part down to the character of the 23% red wine addition. Sweetness and playfulness comes from candied strawberries and pomegranate, but there’s a wild sense of rosehip and redbush tea as well as salt ‘n (white) pepper. The palate blindsides you, opening with delicious fruit but sliding into this amazing play of pithy, bitter pink grapefruit and savoury complexity that is joyously persistent. The Rosé recipe allows for this brilliant way of structuring vintages that perhaps don’t have the sort of compelling acidities of 02 or 08

18.5

Date Tasted : 03/03/2019

/ 2006, Champagne, Dom Perignon, Rosé

Janisson-Baradon Conges 2006

Quite evolved and lifted (winespeak for a little volatile acidity*), with some of the original freshness of having made way over time for Tarte Tatin, seville orange and crystallised yellow fruits. There are some warmer, more oxidative notes of chestnut honey as well as this slightly fudgy, cashew butter character (something I’ve started to associate with Meunier). After a while quite some quite lovely autumnal blackberry fruit comes through too. There’s some sweet spice, coffee and vanilla, although it feels to me that the oak influence is felt more in the general style of the wine than through any overtly-oaky flavours jutting out. Honeyed and biscuity notes round off tangy palate that has (just) seen its best days, with some volatile notes of bruised apples and spice on the finish. There is complexity and personality here, although with this slightly oxidative style and low dosage it would probably have been at its best a couple of years ago

15.5

Date Tasted : 04/09/2018