This 1997 cuvée displays such crystalline youthfulness still. Nevertheless, it is recognisable from both the 2002 and 1998, carrying some of those same exotic fruits as well as honeysuckle and anise – there’s just a little more creamy weight. The recent disgorgement and lack of dosage gives this wine a powerful, forthright character right now which is very striking; it feels tighter than the 2002, but the acidity delivers a tremendously long, mineral palate that really hangs together beautifully.
We did not really discuss ageing this wine. For me, this isn’t a cuvée that has another whole life ahead of it, but more of a bold, singular expression whose character is very much tied in to its post-disgorgement youth. I’m finding quite hard to pin down as it feels like the flavours will really come into focus with a little more age, but I think that period may only be one or two years (and probably under five). Impressive and unique
Date Tasted : 28/11/2018