Abate Nero Domini Nero 2011

This has an open, sunny disposition on the nose with white peach, pear tart richness and pretty jasmine notes, followed by sweet fresh strawberry and whitecurrant. With time it goes a little exotic with clementine and some spicy, sweet warmth like crystallised ginger. Quite gentle and soft-focus at heart, this had a pleasing breadth of fruit at first, tempered with a streak of fuzzy peach skin and a gentle squeeze of fresh acidity on the close

15.5

Date Tasted : 21/09/2019

/ 2011, Abate Nero, Blanc de Noirs, TrentoDOC

Ferrari Perlé Bianco 2009

Pure candied lemon upon popping the cork. After a while a succession of shades of fruit step forward; some sweet orange flashes like passionfruit (yes…!) and tangerine, fragrant fresh apricot and (with air) apple turnover and quince. There is a ripe herbal quality of rosemary honey and anise/tarragon which casts a lovely light on the fruit too, but most interestingly there is this lurking savoury element which keeps popping up and confusing me. I wrote ‘smoked chilli’ which sounds a bit insane and gives the impression that this is a much odder wine than it is, but…let’s say cayenne pepper. I like it.

It seems quite loose on the palate at first, hung around this nice sappy sweet apricot and lemony line of fruit. After time some amaretti biscuit and quince richness pops up. It wears its lees ageing quite lightly with some elegant lemon curd creaminess, but I love the utterly transparent and perfectly-judged dosage (whatever it is….low! 4g/l ish?). A touch of hazelnut skin grip on the finish. I think it is lovely stuff – it misses some of the tension and backbone of truly great Blanc de Blancs for me (warm vintage perhaps?) but makes for delicious drinking

17

Date Tasted : 25/05/2019

/ 2009, Blanc de Blancs, Ferrari, TrentoDOC

Rotari Flavio Riserva 2009

Trentodoc, Italy. Glad we had this last (purely by chance). 100% Chardonnay, 8 years on lees. It didn’t need any longer on lees, and it certainly made the most of its time – it’s flashy but it’s very good. Bought for a silly price in Italy (around EU25). You could cause some mischief by putting this in a lineup of expensive late-disgorged wines I think.

Bosh! Everyone’s eyebrows raised now. Buttermilk and creme fraiche, some smoky tones but also creamy peach, kiwi and masses of candied citrus. There is freshness on the palate though, which is welcome as the wine has taken on a decadent texture in bottle. It threatens blowsiness with some magnolia and blossomy notes but totally gets away with it. Perhaps a bit O.T.T. for some, but I love it. Length, complexity and a bit of swagger

17

Date Tasted : 02/06/2019

/ 2009, Blanc de Blancs, Rotari, TrentoDOC

Ferrari Perlé Rosé 2012

80% Pinot Noir, 20% Chardonnay. A very clean and fragrant style. What strikes me about this wine is just how well-balanced the spectrum of flavours in on the nose; it adds up to something really beautiful. There’s some ripeness with fresh raspberry and candied strawberry, a little sunny apricot and autumnal notes of red quince/crabapple jelly. Brightness comes from ripe citrus (pink grapefruit and clementine) and subtle complexity of basil and tea. This wine shows lovely integration of the lees-aged character with just a touch of creaminess and smoke, but it’s all very pristine and far from heavy. A little speculoos biscuit and floral honey hint at development – it was disgorged in August 2018.

The palate is fresh with fine fruit intensity. I think it needs a little more time for the dosage to settle, but the clarity and subtlety of the fruit shines through with ripe acidity carrying the crabapple and berry fruit some distance on the finish. Real delicacy to the mousse. Best till 2022

17

Date Tasted : 17/01/2019

/ 2012, Ferrari, Rosé, TrentoDOC