Remarkably good value 100% Pinot Meunier from Alexis Leconte in Troissy (a separate project from Champagne Xavier Leconte), even more remarkable for having come from the very difficult 2017 vintage. Gently smoke-tinged classical poached orange fruits and red berries, a gentle herbal twist and the absence of any of the Blanc de Noirs pitfalls (heaviness, oxidation, vegetality). Essentially it was convincing, balanced and moreish. A great find, available in the UK with @sip_champagnes. 17

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