Heucq are based in Cuisles on the North bank of the Marne. 70% Pinot Meunier, 30% Pinot Noir from the pick of the parcels. 10 years on lees sous liège. Disgorged January 19, which presumably means this is the 2008 vintage.

This is a big character. Tasted blind with a group, it went down very well with its developed aromas – there’s a bed of calvados and sherry, spice and cola, some warm ground nut richness and a delicious grapefruit tang drawing out the finish. Blackcurrant leaf and herbs, too. The oxidative side here seems to gel better than you might expect, tempered by the succulence of all that lees ageing and the almost fudgy richness of the style. 16.5

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