The Royale Réserve Non Dosé NV was 2015-based and showed the effects of a warmer vintage, making exact comparisons difficult. Philipponnat explained that he “expected it to age faster and have a more cooked flavour, but in fact the opposite has happened”. Despite the same disgorgement date as the dosed wine this carried a beautiful freshness of peaches in cream with fresh yellow grapefruit and a kind of bristling chalkiness. It closed out with lovely clear white butter and a gentle snap, like a song with an ‘ending’ rather than a fade-out. A good ending, though. The vintage might have been talking as much as anything, but I did find it more detailed than the dosed wine too.
Date Tasted : 17/12/2019