50% Pinot Noir, 50% Chardonnay, with 20% barrel fermentation. 7 years on lees, with disgorgement September 2017. 5 g/l dosage. This offers up such fine, shifting layers on the nose – firstly the open fruit of spiced poached pear and fresh fuzzy quince, then bright yellow grapefruit and lemon. Richness sneaks in with brioche, nougat and a little crème anglaise, and there’s a honeyed papaya sweetness which reminds us we’re dealing with a hot, sunny year in 2009.

The core of the wine is this line between this ripe yellow citrus and the clarity of Northern-Montagne pear/papaya Pinot, but some lovely strands of flavour hang on for the ride; the spicy tones of chestnut honey on the nose and on the finish, the touch of delicious Dulce de Leche creaminess. 2009 seems to suit producers that avoid malolactic, but it is part of the house style here with the acidity relaxing back onto the sofa mid-palate rather than buzzing relentlessly. It offers quite a quiet mousse, too, even seeming Cremant-like in this bottle rather than aggressively-frothy.

A very true taste of 2009, generous but pulled-tight enough to keep its form. Drink now or over the next 5 years (it will be interesting, but not necessarily better, for longer).


Date Tasted : 19/08/2019

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